I arrived to La Paz from Miami at 5.20am Wednesday. The airport is the highest international airport in the world, at over 13k ft in altitude. The flight is the only direct flight from the USA and only about 60 people got off the plane. I guess La Paz doesnt get many US visitors.
Immediately, the effects of altitude are apparent. Walking feels laborious and you almost feel like you are searching for oxygen atoms. After the customs baloney, $135 for a visa, I located an atm machine and got some Bolivianos. As i was leaving to catch a cab I heard a public address anouncement. In Spanish, of course, and I didnt under stand a thing other than i thought I heard my name. it sounded like, senor Pool Batez. I thought it couldnt be me! But i located the information booth just in case. it was me! I left my atm card at the machine. They gave it back to me and saved my trip! What a way to get started. I have heard so much about being on guard for thieves and con artists and my first experience deals with honesty. A great start for the trip! Trust people but dont be played for a fool.
It is a long downhill ride to the city. The area around the airport is huge but looks desperately poor. The view of the city as you go down the rode is incredible. La Paz is a big gash in the earth and there are houses and skyscrapers lining the center of the gash, downtown La Paz, and houses clinging up the sides of the mountains. Never saw anything like it. At night when you are downtown you are surrounded by an awesome view of the twinkling lights of houses that cling to the mountain sides.
The city looks always busy and it appears to me to be larger than the stated population of 1.25million. There is traffic but it moves constantly and surprisingly orderly. Then I realize why. More than half the vehicles are buses and cabs. the buses range from mini vans to full size vans. They always seem to be full of people. It is a poor city so there are relatively few personal autos and there is no public transit other than these vans. I think anyone with a vehicle can just slap up a sign and go into business.
There are many small food stands on the streets. sometimes 6 or more on a block. These stands would easily fit into most American closets. They are all jammed with soda, bottled water, and prepackaged snack foods. There are also many vendors just sitting on the pavement. it looks like half of the citizens of La Paz are in business to sell to the other half.
I find the Bolivians to be gentle people, reserved and very helpful if you need help. They are proud but one senses that they are resigned to a relatively hard life.
This said, however, they love to protest. Apparently, the Bolivians are known for protesting. Marches and rallies are common. On one day there were several going on at once. You see a lot of police. On the day I saw the protest there were a number of police in riot gear. It is hard to imagine these peaceful looking people becoming violent. but unfortuntaley, that is there history and maybe their culture. I saw a huge statue of Che and other statues of famous Bolivians with rifles over their shoulders. I also saw a very large monument to Christopher Columbus. I cant think of ever seeing a statue of Colubus in the USA. Maybe he started the problems in Bolivia because after him came the Spanish in their quest for gold and silver which resulted in the domination of the existing culture.
The president of Bolivia is the first indigenous Bolivian to be elected president. he grew up on a poor farm where the crop was coca. Naturally, he is pro coca and thus anti American. One of his first acts was to kick out the US Ambassador. Despite this, I have been treated very kindly and would have more problems being an American if I went to Quebec City!
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