On Nov 4 took a flight from Cusco to Lima and from Lima to the jungle city of Iquitos, Peru. Arrived to Iquitos late at night during a thunder storm. As I exited the airport I was accosted by cab drivers. I think they were they only true cab drivers in the city. on the way to the hotel all I saw were motorcycle cabs, thousands of them. Not very safe looking but they commanded the streets.
After a warm, muggy night in the hotel I made it to the boat that would take me 75miles up the Amazon River and then into a narrow creek for 6days at a jungle lodge. Iquitos made its early fame as a rubber town. At one time it was very wealthy and a few shabby looking mansions covered in Portugese tile work remain.
The Amazon is thousands of miles away from the ocean yet at Iquitos it is mighty. It is over one mile wide and even during the dry season it is 50feet deep or more. Incredible power. The rainy season is just starting and the river will rise substantially. I have much more respect for the word amazon. The river is very pure in quality but it is very muddy. We had a chance to swim in its warm waters. I had my googles on and could only see murky yellow for about 10inches. beyond that the water was pitch black....never experienced that before. I feel fortunate to have trekked along some of the raging creeks near Macchu Pichu that end up in the Amazon. The power of nature is clearly evident.
The lodge is remote yet near by is a river village. Very simple but very friendly people, many who work at the lodge. My room was on stilts (the water rises about 20feet or more during the wet season and most of the jungle we visited will be under water in a few months). The walls were screens. No need for even a sheet at night because of the warm humid air. Just moving made you sweat. I dont sweat easily when exercising but during our jungle walks the sweat was rolling off me.
The first thing I noticed about the jungle was how noisy it is. Birds of all types are always singing or cawing and bugs and frogs are constantly singing. The sounds varied so I was glad I had 6days to experience the variety.
During the dry season the animals have lots of space to roam. therefore, spotting animals was difficult and would have been impossible with out our guides. These guys could spot a speck in a snow storm. They were amazing. We saw various types of monkeys, sloths, many birds (huge hawks of many types, song birds, king fishers hitting the water, etc), and reptiles. It took effort to spot all but the hawks and vultures but patience was always rewarded. We took several night walks and spotted tarantulas, tree rats, giant frogs and caimans (a type of alligator). Because the water is so low, we saw many small fish. in some places on the creek, the water looked as if it were boiling from fish hitting the surface.
I spend one night camping in the jungle. Not as risky as it sounds. My guides fed me fish the whole time and I ate pirahna, oscar and something called a monkey fish. It was all excellent. Along with the fish, it was plantains roasted in a fire and pineapple. The only close encounter the whole week was stepping near the only snake seen all week. It happened to be a very poisonous snake and my guide got pretty excited.
During the rainny season it is very easy to see animals since the flooding is enormous, thus leaving very little dry land for the creatures to live on. It is during this time, that the jungle residents have to worry about caimans and jaguars. In the village I saw the hide of a jaguar on villager´s wall. He shot the jaguar dead as it tried to get into his home during the rising water.
Fortunately, we had only two days of rain and this lasted only one hour each time. The one rain had to be over 5inches in less than one hour. I saw how much there was when I watched the guides scooping the water out of the boats after the rain.
It was a very peaceful week. I have a deeper appreciation for the variety of life in this wondrous world of ours. It was fun to get to know some villagers who live in the jungle. They have a very simple life but appear happy and very healthy (fish, vegetables and plenty of fruit must be the reason).
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Trek of a life time
Recently returned from a 10day trek into the mountains of Southern Peru. We began in a small remote town and ended 9days latter at Machu Picchu. Most of our trek was on ancient Incan trails. Once we began we did not see any roads or motor vehicles for 8days.
The hike was very arduous. Up at 5.30 every morning and on the trail by 7. Except for a lunch break we walked until late afternoon. We were either hiking up or hiking down huge mountains. we crossed 4mountains with over 15,000 being the highest pass. we also hiked down to 5,000 feet. we had at least 5days were the hike would be at least the same as going to the base of the Grand Canyon and back. Except this was more difficult. It was steeper and we had to always watch for the rocks on the trail. Over the years of mule traffic the paved Incan roads have been torn to shreds. The trail was often very narrow and always steep. going up was hard but going down even harder because of the steepness. we had 13 travelers in our group and every one said it was more arduous than expected. Along with our travelers we had 2guides, 3cooks and 7 multeers who controled 22mules.
We experienced all types of weather including snow as the pass and steamy heat near the bottom of the mountains. we went from scrubby ground to lush forest and back again. we crossed many raging streams either by courageously wading through them or by walking over rickety wooden bridges high above the water.
Was the effort worth it__ Absolutely! We viewed emerald green canyons that could easily enclose the Grand Canyon. All around the canyon were snow capped peaks that reached over 18,000 ft. As you peered into the canyons you could see farm lands perched on the sides of the steep mountains. These farmers were truly removed from civilization. They had long walks to get to markets, in many cases a three day walk on the narrow Incan trails. We passed through some very small villages. the people all had warm smiles, and appeared to be well fed. a sign of this was all the dogs we saw. they appeared well cared for and very peaceful. It was obvious from the homes and the clothing that these folks were very very poor. Fantastic scenery isnt everything-
The highlight of the trip was a day spent in the ancient Incan mountain village of Choquequirao. At one time it was one of the greatest of the Incan cities. It is perched high above the river valley, at least a mile up. Although it is only 15% excavated, the vegetation swallows up everything in about 3yrs, there was still much to see and much to be amazed about. everthing is made of stone and of high quality. the key spiritual site is a circular top of a hill that has a commanding view of the valleys. the city is surrounded by terraces that reach all the way to the river valley. the terraces consist of 6ft rock walls and then about 7feet of flat area. the terraces that we saw were not fully uncovered yet there were 40 that we could see. just walking down the length of these and back was an effort of strength and balance. The extent of the work to create this city perched high on the mountain is fantastic. it is said that 60,000 men were building at any one time. What made our visit so unusual is that only about 300people a year visit this site. If there was a road way to the site and if all the vegatation was removed it would be a world wonder, rivalling that of the pyramids in Egypt. A week after our visit we made it to macchu Picchu. It is an incredible site on its own but not as expansive and as peaceful at Choqueirao. I couldnt believe the volume of tourists at Macchu Picchu.
I have many pictures of our trek and they hopefully will show the beauty of the little visitied Andies in southern Peru.
After a rest day in Cusco, I spent a day travelling by air to the jungle of northeast Peru. I am now in Iquitos which is on the Amazon River. It is a sea level so breathing is a lot easier after spending a month at high altitude and the weather is warm and muggy. A nice change from the dry cold.
Right now I am waiting for a tour guide who will take me 80miles up the river to a remote camp. we should get to see a lot of wildlife. i will be there for 5days and likely out of reach of the internet.
The hike was very arduous. Up at 5.30 every morning and on the trail by 7. Except for a lunch break we walked until late afternoon. We were either hiking up or hiking down huge mountains. we crossed 4mountains with over 15,000 being the highest pass. we also hiked down to 5,000 feet. we had at least 5days were the hike would be at least the same as going to the base of the Grand Canyon and back. Except this was more difficult. It was steeper and we had to always watch for the rocks on the trail. Over the years of mule traffic the paved Incan roads have been torn to shreds. The trail was often very narrow and always steep. going up was hard but going down even harder because of the steepness. we had 13 travelers in our group and every one said it was more arduous than expected. Along with our travelers we had 2guides, 3cooks and 7 multeers who controled 22mules.
We experienced all types of weather including snow as the pass and steamy heat near the bottom of the mountains. we went from scrubby ground to lush forest and back again. we crossed many raging streams either by courageously wading through them or by walking over rickety wooden bridges high above the water.
Was the effort worth it__ Absolutely! We viewed emerald green canyons that could easily enclose the Grand Canyon. All around the canyon were snow capped peaks that reached over 18,000 ft. As you peered into the canyons you could see farm lands perched on the sides of the steep mountains. These farmers were truly removed from civilization. They had long walks to get to markets, in many cases a three day walk on the narrow Incan trails. We passed through some very small villages. the people all had warm smiles, and appeared to be well fed. a sign of this was all the dogs we saw. they appeared well cared for and very peaceful. It was obvious from the homes and the clothing that these folks were very very poor. Fantastic scenery isnt everything-
The highlight of the trip was a day spent in the ancient Incan mountain village of Choquequirao. At one time it was one of the greatest of the Incan cities. It is perched high above the river valley, at least a mile up. Although it is only 15% excavated, the vegetation swallows up everything in about 3yrs, there was still much to see and much to be amazed about. everthing is made of stone and of high quality. the key spiritual site is a circular top of a hill that has a commanding view of the valleys. the city is surrounded by terraces that reach all the way to the river valley. the terraces consist of 6ft rock walls and then about 7feet of flat area. the terraces that we saw were not fully uncovered yet there were 40 that we could see. just walking down the length of these and back was an effort of strength and balance. The extent of the work to create this city perched high on the mountain is fantastic. it is said that 60,000 men were building at any one time. What made our visit so unusual is that only about 300people a year visit this site. If there was a road way to the site and if all the vegatation was removed it would be a world wonder, rivalling that of the pyramids in Egypt. A week after our visit we made it to macchu Picchu. It is an incredible site on its own but not as expansive and as peaceful at Choqueirao. I couldnt believe the volume of tourists at Macchu Picchu.
I have many pictures of our trek and they hopefully will show the beauty of the little visitied Andies in southern Peru.
After a rest day in Cusco, I spent a day travelling by air to the jungle of northeast Peru. I am now in Iquitos which is on the Amazon River. It is a sea level so breathing is a lot easier after spending a month at high altitude and the weather is warm and muggy. A nice change from the dry cold.
Right now I am waiting for a tour guide who will take me 80miles up the river to a remote camp. we should get to see a lot of wildlife. i will be there for 5days and likely out of reach of the internet.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
The Ancient Inca Capital
Ending up three days in the ancient capital city of the Incas. Did not intend to get here so soon but some political problems in Bolivia (the town I wanted to see was closed because of strikes) got me here sooner. There was no place interesting between places ao I landed here.
There are many huge and well attended churches in Cusco. They are all built on the foundations of Incan buildings. My hotel is even on an old Incan building. The wall in the reception room is Incan. The blocks of stone are huge, perfectly alligned and no mortar. They were incredible architects. Too bad the Spainish used the blocks and thereby destroying the splendor to build their stuff.
The city was layed out by the Incas to be in the shape of a pumma (a sacred animal for them). There is a large mountain that overlooks the city and at top of the mountain was the "head" of the pumma. Took a hike up there and the views are spectacular of the valley that is Cusco. At the end of the valley you can see snow covered mountains. Much of the "head" has been removed for the stones but the area is still spectacular in size and scope. Only the largest of the stones remain ( 200 tones)but they are incredibly impressive. as awe inspriring as the pyramids, I think.
The city is attractive and very easy to get around. Everything is built of stone and the streets are clean (unlike Bolivia). There are not that many street vendors but there are a lot of husstlers. They spot a gringo a block away and they come for you. Mercifully, they take a no very well.
Last night I sat on the cathedral steps and I think I saw half of the population. I was offered everything from a hat, to a shoe shine, to Che cigarettes to cocaine. Had a nice long chat with a young man from Cusco and I was impressed by his English skills despite the fact he is just a street vendor.
It is a spectacularly beautiful area. The weather is very pleasant and only warm if you are in the sun. It is easy to see why the Incans made this their capital. At their zenith they controlled an area of 1,500 miles in length and this is where they made their capital.
There are many huge and well attended churches in Cusco. They are all built on the foundations of Incan buildings. My hotel is even on an old Incan building. The wall in the reception room is Incan. The blocks of stone are huge, perfectly alligned and no mortar. They were incredible architects. Too bad the Spainish used the blocks and thereby destroying the splendor to build their stuff.
The city was layed out by the Incas to be in the shape of a pumma (a sacred animal for them). There is a large mountain that overlooks the city and at top of the mountain was the "head" of the pumma. Took a hike up there and the views are spectacular of the valley that is Cusco. At the end of the valley you can see snow covered mountains. Much of the "head" has been removed for the stones but the area is still spectacular in size and scope. Only the largest of the stones remain ( 200 tones)but they are incredibly impressive. as awe inspriring as the pyramids, I think.
The city is attractive and very easy to get around. Everything is built of stone and the streets are clean (unlike Bolivia). There are not that many street vendors but there are a lot of husstlers. They spot a gringo a block away and they come for you. Mercifully, they take a no very well.
Last night I sat on the cathedral steps and I think I saw half of the population. I was offered everything from a hat, to a shoe shine, to Che cigarettes to cocaine. Had a nice long chat with a young man from Cusco and I was impressed by his English skills despite the fact he is just a street vendor.
It is a spectacularly beautiful area. The weather is very pleasant and only warm if you are in the sun. It is easy to see why the Incans made this their capital. At their zenith they controlled an area of 1,500 miles in length and this is where they made their capital.
Friday, October 21, 2011
The Best Bus Ride Ever
Took an all day bus ride from Puno to Cusco. The bus was better than first class in an plane. Huge leather seats, huge very clean windows, a full time escort and free lunch and drinks (non alcolholic) the whole way. We made 4stops along the way to view historic areas.
The ride to Cusco was rising in altitude for the first half. we reached nearly 15,000ft and were surrounded by snow covered mountains. After that there was a long gradual decent into Cusco. The valley was surrounded by huge mountains the whole way. The air warmed up noticeably and the terrain was very green. It was nice to see this after two weeks of barren landscape. All over the hills and mountains were terraced from the Inca times.
Our first stop was at an ancient archeological site. These pre-Incans cut off peoples heads and they ate babies. saw ancient statues showing this. When the Incans took over they ended this practice.
Another stop was at a temple that honored the most important god for the Incas (the sun). there still stands an Incan wall that is at least 30ft high. around the temple were the remains of many, many stone houses. the ancient city was also surrounded by a great wall. My guess is that the city was as big as one mile in each direction. Never saw so many stones.
Our final stop before Cusco was at a small town that has a church they call the Sistine Chapel of the Americas. Uninspiring from the outside but beautiful on the inside with many colorful oil paintings and gold leaf. It is because of the color they call it Sistine. Other than this, no comparison....I vote for the original.
It was build over an Incan temple so we could see the ancient stone foundation.
Made it to the hotel at night and found out I came in three days early when I thought i was only one day early. That is ok because this is a lovely city. and expensive and pushy compared to what I experiences in Bolivia. The weather is bright and clear but chilly in the shade and cold at night.
My hotel is a 17century Spanish villa with a gorgeous courtyard. More interesting, however, are the outside walls which are original Inca construction. the blocks of stone have very straight lines and no morter. Facinating to see this. It will be an easy place to camp out for a few days.
At night watched a couple of Seinfeld episodes and the World Series. It is a small world!
The ride to Cusco was rising in altitude for the first half. we reached nearly 15,000ft and were surrounded by snow covered mountains. After that there was a long gradual decent into Cusco. The valley was surrounded by huge mountains the whole way. The air warmed up noticeably and the terrain was very green. It was nice to see this after two weeks of barren landscape. All over the hills and mountains were terraced from the Inca times.
Our first stop was at an ancient archeological site. These pre-Incans cut off peoples heads and they ate babies. saw ancient statues showing this. When the Incans took over they ended this practice.
Another stop was at a temple that honored the most important god for the Incas (the sun). there still stands an Incan wall that is at least 30ft high. around the temple were the remains of many, many stone houses. the ancient city was also surrounded by a great wall. My guess is that the city was as big as one mile in each direction. Never saw so many stones.
Our final stop before Cusco was at a small town that has a church they call the Sistine Chapel of the Americas. Uninspiring from the outside but beautiful on the inside with many colorful oil paintings and gold leaf. It is because of the color they call it Sistine. Other than this, no comparison....I vote for the original.
It was build over an Incan temple so we could see the ancient stone foundation.
Made it to the hotel at night and found out I came in three days early when I thought i was only one day early. That is ok because this is a lovely city. and expensive and pushy compared to what I experiences in Bolivia. The weather is bright and clear but chilly in the shade and cold at night.
My hotel is a 17century Spanish villa with a gorgeous courtyard. More interesting, however, are the outside walls which are original Inca construction. the blocks of stone have very straight lines and no morter. Facinating to see this. It will be an easy place to camp out for a few days.
At night watched a couple of Seinfeld episodes and the World Series. It is a small world!
City of Music and Parades
Puno late at night. Walked around the town square at night and like most cities it was dominated b a huge stone (unattractive) church. During my brief walk I listented to a musical group (guitars and andean flutes), saw a parade bringing a huge float of Jesus into a church ( supported by a 30piece band) and then later came accross a street concert (two drummers and about 10men playing flutes). That was a lot to see in one night.
In the morning took a boat ride to the floating islands of Lake Titicaca. It sure was touristy but interesting. The islands were made of reeds and they really float. Some natives still live on them. it was cool to walk on the islands....it was like walking on the softest carpet you can imagine. The natives really ham it up for the visitors.
Later in the day took a long hike up a side of a mountain in the town. because of the altitude had to stop a few times to catch my breath. Specatcular views of the lake. I could hear the sounds of music in the distance.
At night ate in a pizza joint. Everywhere I go in Bolivia and Peru there are more pizza restaurants than all other restuarants combined. During my meal a band walked in and played us some traditional tunes. After dinner I walked right into a huge procession of students (and music) that went on late into the night. There were hundreds of college age students doing their dances as they marched down the street to the capital. It was fun visiting Puno because of the music. if it were not for this, there wasnt much to see or do. The town is somewhat run down and the sidewalks are only about 2ft wide so it made getting around difficult.
In the morning took a boat ride to the floating islands of Lake Titicaca. It sure was touristy but interesting. The islands were made of reeds and they really float. Some natives still live on them. it was cool to walk on the islands....it was like walking on the softest carpet you can imagine. The natives really ham it up for the visitors.
Later in the day took a long hike up a side of a mountain in the town. because of the altitude had to stop a few times to catch my breath. Specatcular views of the lake. I could hear the sounds of music in the distance.
At night ate in a pizza joint. Everywhere I go in Bolivia and Peru there are more pizza restaurants than all other restuarants combined. During my meal a band walked in and played us some traditional tunes. After dinner I walked right into a huge procession of students (and music) that went on late into the night. There were hundreds of college age students doing their dances as they marched down the street to the capital. It was fun visiting Puno because of the music. if it were not for this, there wasnt much to see or do. The town is somewhat run down and the sidewalks are only about 2ft wide so it made getting around difficult.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Shabby and dusty
After the four day journey, spent the afternoon and evening in a very poor city at the edge of the flats. My room was very basic and cost only $7 for the night. it even had cable tv and I spent part of the night watching CNN.
Many backpackers staying in this city. It is cheap and it is a gateway for the salt flats and the mountains. The residents of the city were neatly dressed and appeared to be reasonably happy.
I booked a flight in the morning to La Paz. The thought of an 8hr ride in a old cramped bus on dirt roads didnt appeal to me. A one hour flight in a very narrow plane (2 seats accross) was $125 and worth it! When walking to my seat on the plane I was nearly bent totally over so as not to hit my head.
I got to the airport one hour ahead of time and the only person there was a soldier walking along the runway. the cab driver drove me onto the runway and left me out there. There is a terminal that is new and two stories high. I walked in and there was no one. Despite being new, the place smelled like a toilet. Gradually people showed up and I was able to leave for civilization the in big city of La Paz. the approach to this very high city that is surrounded by the snow covered Andeas was breathtaking.
Upon arrival I went to the bus station to book a ride to Copacabana which is on the shore of Lake Titicaca. I couldnt get there because the city was closed because of a strike. It seems that the Bolivians are their own worst enemy. I booked instead a 5hr bus trip to Puno Peru.
I spent most the ride having a great time talking with a former Israelly soldier and now businessman. he was great company.
At the border with Peru, we had to get out of the bus and walk through customes and into Peru. The mass of life and commerce in this area was truly amazing. The Peruvians want Bolivain goods because they are so cheap. Apparently, the Bolivians get potatos in return. All the goods were being moved my bicycle. It sure looked and felt like a third world economy. Saw many money changers on the side of the road. Saw one man whip out a stack of $100 bills. They like US currency down here and at the ATMs, dollars can always be had.
The scenery along the lake to Puno was pastoral. Many of the hillsides were terraced with rock fences. Obviously, terraces from many hundreds of years ago. Made it to Puno after dark, got a nice hotel.
Many backpackers staying in this city. It is cheap and it is a gateway for the salt flats and the mountains. The residents of the city were neatly dressed and appeared to be reasonably happy.
I booked a flight in the morning to La Paz. The thought of an 8hr ride in a old cramped bus on dirt roads didnt appeal to me. A one hour flight in a very narrow plane (2 seats accross) was $125 and worth it! When walking to my seat on the plane I was nearly bent totally over so as not to hit my head.
I got to the airport one hour ahead of time and the only person there was a soldier walking along the runway. the cab driver drove me onto the runway and left me out there. There is a terminal that is new and two stories high. I walked in and there was no one. Despite being new, the place smelled like a toilet. Gradually people showed up and I was able to leave for civilization the in big city of La Paz. the approach to this very high city that is surrounded by the snow covered Andeas was breathtaking.
Upon arrival I went to the bus station to book a ride to Copacabana which is on the shore of Lake Titicaca. I couldnt get there because the city was closed because of a strike. It seems that the Bolivians are their own worst enemy. I booked instead a 5hr bus trip to Puno Peru.
I spent most the ride having a great time talking with a former Israelly soldier and now businessman. he was great company.
At the border with Peru, we had to get out of the bus and walk through customes and into Peru. The mass of life and commerce in this area was truly amazing. The Peruvians want Bolivain goods because they are so cheap. Apparently, the Bolivians get potatos in return. All the goods were being moved my bicycle. It sure looked and felt like a third world economy. Saw many money changers on the side of the road. Saw one man whip out a stack of $100 bills. They like US currency down here and at the ATMs, dollars can always be had.
The scenery along the lake to Puno was pastoral. Many of the hillsides were terraced with rock fences. Obviously, terraces from many hundreds of years ago. Made it to Puno after dark, got a nice hotel.
Four days in wild Bolivia
On Friday morning I started a four day journey into the wilds of Bolivia. My tour group consisted of three charming young ladies from England, a driver and our tour director Nancy, a native of Bolivia. We loaded a jeep with our personal needs, extra gas and food for four days. The day started off bright and cool as nearly every day seems to start in this part of the Americas.
After a mile of paved road we drove on very rugged and rocky trails for the next four days. Over the next four days we saw very few cars and few people. We were clearly entering a wild part of the world.
We never got below 13,000ft of elevation during any of the journey. At times were were nearly at 17,000ft. It is an inhosbitable land with incredibly bright sun,fierce winds and bone numbing cold at night. The ground cover is very sparse. the Altiplano is essentially a cold desert. There is green moss scattered about and it grows at only one millimeter a year. The only snow we saw were on the high peaks that border Chile.
Our evening accomodations were very sparse. no light, no heat and shared rooms (the girls sure liked to talk so I just pretended I was sleeping). It was essentially like living in a tent with cement walls. It got so cold at night it was difficult to sleep. I got to dislike Bolivian food too. One day all I consumed was Coca Cola.
Well into the highlands we visited a Spanish ghost town that was 300yrs old. There were numerous rock walls remaining from the houses and three churches that were part of the city. It was incredible that the Spanish could establish a city in this hostile environment. Food and water are not available from this land so I wonder how they survived. The drive to get silver apparently overcame the odds.
We saw large herds of llamas grazing on this harsh land. How they were able to locate food is a mystery to me. The llamas were the only mammals we saw except for dogs in the small villages that we visited.
One of the highlights of this journey is to see the high mountain lakes. One was dark red ( due to the algae), and another a greenish blue. What made the lakes especially interesting were the large flocks of flamingos that were feeding in the lakes. One type of flamingo we saw is extremely rare. I always thought flamingos lived in tropical sea areas.
The mountains in this part of Bolivia are immense (nearly 20,000ft) and all of them are extinct volcanos. Many were very conical in shape with just the top off and some were mountains with the side blown off. The mountains were not in a chain but spread out over the vast landscape. You began to feel like you were on another planet and not on earth.
On the final night we stayed in a motel made of salt. It was located at the edge of the great salt flat called the Solar. It is so huge that it is easily seen from space. I bet it is almost the size of Lake Erie. I took an evening walk on our last night before we entered that flats and I saw many stone walls running up a hill side. these stone fences were in great shape and they were from the age of the Incas. It is so interesting to see so many well constructed stone walls that predate the arrival of the Spanish.
Our final day was a drive accross the great salt flat. Given the altitude and the intense sun, the experience of being on the flat felt other worldly. Within the flats there are about 20 islands. we vistied the larest of them. It was covered with ancient cactus and it was occuppied by the Incas. On top of the island, human and animal sacrifices were made.
At the end of the flat we saw many men working with shovels, scraping the salt and loading it by hand onto trucks. It was sad to see such inefficient use of human labor.
It was a facinating four days. My group got along wonderfully and we all have many memories of a very unique experience.
After a mile of paved road we drove on very rugged and rocky trails for the next four days. Over the next four days we saw very few cars and few people. We were clearly entering a wild part of the world.
We never got below 13,000ft of elevation during any of the journey. At times were were nearly at 17,000ft. It is an inhosbitable land with incredibly bright sun,fierce winds and bone numbing cold at night. The ground cover is very sparse. the Altiplano is essentially a cold desert. There is green moss scattered about and it grows at only one millimeter a year. The only snow we saw were on the high peaks that border Chile.
Our evening accomodations were very sparse. no light, no heat and shared rooms (the girls sure liked to talk so I just pretended I was sleeping). It was essentially like living in a tent with cement walls. It got so cold at night it was difficult to sleep. I got to dislike Bolivian food too. One day all I consumed was Coca Cola.
Well into the highlands we visited a Spanish ghost town that was 300yrs old. There were numerous rock walls remaining from the houses and three churches that were part of the city. It was incredible that the Spanish could establish a city in this hostile environment. Food and water are not available from this land so I wonder how they survived. The drive to get silver apparently overcame the odds.
We saw large herds of llamas grazing on this harsh land. How they were able to locate food is a mystery to me. The llamas were the only mammals we saw except for dogs in the small villages that we visited.
One of the highlights of this journey is to see the high mountain lakes. One was dark red ( due to the algae), and another a greenish blue. What made the lakes especially interesting were the large flocks of flamingos that were feeding in the lakes. One type of flamingo we saw is extremely rare. I always thought flamingos lived in tropical sea areas.
The mountains in this part of Bolivia are immense (nearly 20,000ft) and all of them are extinct volcanos. Many were very conical in shape with just the top off and some were mountains with the side blown off. The mountains were not in a chain but spread out over the vast landscape. You began to feel like you were on another planet and not on earth.
On the final night we stayed in a motel made of salt. It was located at the edge of the great salt flat called the Solar. It is so huge that it is easily seen from space. I bet it is almost the size of Lake Erie. I took an evening walk on our last night before we entered that flats and I saw many stone walls running up a hill side. these stone fences were in great shape and they were from the age of the Incas. It is so interesting to see so many well constructed stone walls that predate the arrival of the Spanish.
Our final day was a drive accross the great salt flat. Given the altitude and the intense sun, the experience of being on the flat felt other worldly. Within the flats there are about 20 islands. we vistied the larest of them. It was covered with ancient cactus and it was occuppied by the Incas. On top of the island, human and animal sacrifices were made.
At the end of the flat we saw many men working with shovels, scraping the salt and loading it by hand onto trucks. It was sad to see such inefficient use of human labor.
It was a facinating four days. My group got along wonderfully and we all have many memories of a very unique experience.
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