On Nov 4 took a flight from Cusco to Lima and from Lima to the jungle city of Iquitos, Peru. Arrived to Iquitos late at night during a thunder storm. As I exited the airport I was accosted by cab drivers. I think they were they only true cab drivers in the city. on the way to the hotel all I saw were motorcycle cabs, thousands of them. Not very safe looking but they commanded the streets.
After a warm, muggy night in the hotel I made it to the boat that would take me 75miles up the Amazon River and then into a narrow creek for 6days at a jungle lodge. Iquitos made its early fame as a rubber town. At one time it was very wealthy and a few shabby looking mansions covered in Portugese tile work remain.
The Amazon is thousands of miles away from the ocean yet at Iquitos it is mighty. It is over one mile wide and even during the dry season it is 50feet deep or more. Incredible power. The rainy season is just starting and the river will rise substantially. I have much more respect for the word amazon. The river is very pure in quality but it is very muddy. We had a chance to swim in its warm waters. I had my googles on and could only see murky yellow for about 10inches. beyond that the water was pitch black....never experienced that before. I feel fortunate to have trekked along some of the raging creeks near Macchu Pichu that end up in the Amazon. The power of nature is clearly evident.
The lodge is remote yet near by is a river village. Very simple but very friendly people, many who work at the lodge. My room was on stilts (the water rises about 20feet or more during the wet season and most of the jungle we visited will be under water in a few months). The walls were screens. No need for even a sheet at night because of the warm humid air. Just moving made you sweat. I dont sweat easily when exercising but during our jungle walks the sweat was rolling off me.
The first thing I noticed about the jungle was how noisy it is. Birds of all types are always singing or cawing and bugs and frogs are constantly singing. The sounds varied so I was glad I had 6days to experience the variety.
During the dry season the animals have lots of space to roam. therefore, spotting animals was difficult and would have been impossible with out our guides. These guys could spot a speck in a snow storm. They were amazing. We saw various types of monkeys, sloths, many birds (huge hawks of many types, song birds, king fishers hitting the water, etc), and reptiles. It took effort to spot all but the hawks and vultures but patience was always rewarded. We took several night walks and spotted tarantulas, tree rats, giant frogs and caimans (a type of alligator). Because the water is so low, we saw many small fish. in some places on the creek, the water looked as if it were boiling from fish hitting the surface.
I spend one night camping in the jungle. Not as risky as it sounds. My guides fed me fish the whole time and I ate pirahna, oscar and something called a monkey fish. It was all excellent. Along with the fish, it was plantains roasted in a fire and pineapple. The only close encounter the whole week was stepping near the only snake seen all week. It happened to be a very poisonous snake and my guide got pretty excited.
During the rainny season it is very easy to see animals since the flooding is enormous, thus leaving very little dry land for the creatures to live on. It is during this time, that the jungle residents have to worry about caimans and jaguars. In the village I saw the hide of a jaguar on villager´s wall. He shot the jaguar dead as it tried to get into his home during the rising water.
Fortunately, we had only two days of rain and this lasted only one hour each time. The one rain had to be over 5inches in less than one hour. I saw how much there was when I watched the guides scooping the water out of the boats after the rain.
It was a very peaceful week. I have a deeper appreciation for the variety of life in this wondrous world of ours. It was fun to get to know some villagers who live in the jungle. They have a very simple life but appear happy and very healthy (fish, vegetables and plenty of fruit must be the reason).
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Trek of a life time
Recently returned from a 10day trek into the mountains of Southern Peru. We began in a small remote town and ended 9days latter at Machu Picchu. Most of our trek was on ancient Incan trails. Once we began we did not see any roads or motor vehicles for 8days.
The hike was very arduous. Up at 5.30 every morning and on the trail by 7. Except for a lunch break we walked until late afternoon. We were either hiking up or hiking down huge mountains. we crossed 4mountains with over 15,000 being the highest pass. we also hiked down to 5,000 feet. we had at least 5days were the hike would be at least the same as going to the base of the Grand Canyon and back. Except this was more difficult. It was steeper and we had to always watch for the rocks on the trail. Over the years of mule traffic the paved Incan roads have been torn to shreds. The trail was often very narrow and always steep. going up was hard but going down even harder because of the steepness. we had 13 travelers in our group and every one said it was more arduous than expected. Along with our travelers we had 2guides, 3cooks and 7 multeers who controled 22mules.
We experienced all types of weather including snow as the pass and steamy heat near the bottom of the mountains. we went from scrubby ground to lush forest and back again. we crossed many raging streams either by courageously wading through them or by walking over rickety wooden bridges high above the water.
Was the effort worth it__ Absolutely! We viewed emerald green canyons that could easily enclose the Grand Canyon. All around the canyon were snow capped peaks that reached over 18,000 ft. As you peered into the canyons you could see farm lands perched on the sides of the steep mountains. These farmers were truly removed from civilization. They had long walks to get to markets, in many cases a three day walk on the narrow Incan trails. We passed through some very small villages. the people all had warm smiles, and appeared to be well fed. a sign of this was all the dogs we saw. they appeared well cared for and very peaceful. It was obvious from the homes and the clothing that these folks were very very poor. Fantastic scenery isnt everything-
The highlight of the trip was a day spent in the ancient Incan mountain village of Choquequirao. At one time it was one of the greatest of the Incan cities. It is perched high above the river valley, at least a mile up. Although it is only 15% excavated, the vegetation swallows up everything in about 3yrs, there was still much to see and much to be amazed about. everthing is made of stone and of high quality. the key spiritual site is a circular top of a hill that has a commanding view of the valleys. the city is surrounded by terraces that reach all the way to the river valley. the terraces consist of 6ft rock walls and then about 7feet of flat area. the terraces that we saw were not fully uncovered yet there were 40 that we could see. just walking down the length of these and back was an effort of strength and balance. The extent of the work to create this city perched high on the mountain is fantastic. it is said that 60,000 men were building at any one time. What made our visit so unusual is that only about 300people a year visit this site. If there was a road way to the site and if all the vegatation was removed it would be a world wonder, rivalling that of the pyramids in Egypt. A week after our visit we made it to macchu Picchu. It is an incredible site on its own but not as expansive and as peaceful at Choqueirao. I couldnt believe the volume of tourists at Macchu Picchu.
I have many pictures of our trek and they hopefully will show the beauty of the little visitied Andies in southern Peru.
After a rest day in Cusco, I spent a day travelling by air to the jungle of northeast Peru. I am now in Iquitos which is on the Amazon River. It is a sea level so breathing is a lot easier after spending a month at high altitude and the weather is warm and muggy. A nice change from the dry cold.
Right now I am waiting for a tour guide who will take me 80miles up the river to a remote camp. we should get to see a lot of wildlife. i will be there for 5days and likely out of reach of the internet.
The hike was very arduous. Up at 5.30 every morning and on the trail by 7. Except for a lunch break we walked until late afternoon. We were either hiking up or hiking down huge mountains. we crossed 4mountains with over 15,000 being the highest pass. we also hiked down to 5,000 feet. we had at least 5days were the hike would be at least the same as going to the base of the Grand Canyon and back. Except this was more difficult. It was steeper and we had to always watch for the rocks on the trail. Over the years of mule traffic the paved Incan roads have been torn to shreds. The trail was often very narrow and always steep. going up was hard but going down even harder because of the steepness. we had 13 travelers in our group and every one said it was more arduous than expected. Along with our travelers we had 2guides, 3cooks and 7 multeers who controled 22mules.
We experienced all types of weather including snow as the pass and steamy heat near the bottom of the mountains. we went from scrubby ground to lush forest and back again. we crossed many raging streams either by courageously wading through them or by walking over rickety wooden bridges high above the water.
Was the effort worth it__ Absolutely! We viewed emerald green canyons that could easily enclose the Grand Canyon. All around the canyon were snow capped peaks that reached over 18,000 ft. As you peered into the canyons you could see farm lands perched on the sides of the steep mountains. These farmers were truly removed from civilization. They had long walks to get to markets, in many cases a three day walk on the narrow Incan trails. We passed through some very small villages. the people all had warm smiles, and appeared to be well fed. a sign of this was all the dogs we saw. they appeared well cared for and very peaceful. It was obvious from the homes and the clothing that these folks were very very poor. Fantastic scenery isnt everything-
The highlight of the trip was a day spent in the ancient Incan mountain village of Choquequirao. At one time it was one of the greatest of the Incan cities. It is perched high above the river valley, at least a mile up. Although it is only 15% excavated, the vegetation swallows up everything in about 3yrs, there was still much to see and much to be amazed about. everthing is made of stone and of high quality. the key spiritual site is a circular top of a hill that has a commanding view of the valleys. the city is surrounded by terraces that reach all the way to the river valley. the terraces consist of 6ft rock walls and then about 7feet of flat area. the terraces that we saw were not fully uncovered yet there were 40 that we could see. just walking down the length of these and back was an effort of strength and balance. The extent of the work to create this city perched high on the mountain is fantastic. it is said that 60,000 men were building at any one time. What made our visit so unusual is that only about 300people a year visit this site. If there was a road way to the site and if all the vegatation was removed it would be a world wonder, rivalling that of the pyramids in Egypt. A week after our visit we made it to macchu Picchu. It is an incredible site on its own but not as expansive and as peaceful at Choqueirao. I couldnt believe the volume of tourists at Macchu Picchu.
I have many pictures of our trek and they hopefully will show the beauty of the little visitied Andies in southern Peru.
After a rest day in Cusco, I spent a day travelling by air to the jungle of northeast Peru. I am now in Iquitos which is on the Amazon River. It is a sea level so breathing is a lot easier after spending a month at high altitude and the weather is warm and muggy. A nice change from the dry cold.
Right now I am waiting for a tour guide who will take me 80miles up the river to a remote camp. we should get to see a lot of wildlife. i will be there for 5days and likely out of reach of the internet.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
The Ancient Inca Capital
Ending up three days in the ancient capital city of the Incas. Did not intend to get here so soon but some political problems in Bolivia (the town I wanted to see was closed because of strikes) got me here sooner. There was no place interesting between places ao I landed here.
There are many huge and well attended churches in Cusco. They are all built on the foundations of Incan buildings. My hotel is even on an old Incan building. The wall in the reception room is Incan. The blocks of stone are huge, perfectly alligned and no mortar. They were incredible architects. Too bad the Spainish used the blocks and thereby destroying the splendor to build their stuff.
The city was layed out by the Incas to be in the shape of a pumma (a sacred animal for them). There is a large mountain that overlooks the city and at top of the mountain was the "head" of the pumma. Took a hike up there and the views are spectacular of the valley that is Cusco. At the end of the valley you can see snow covered mountains. Much of the "head" has been removed for the stones but the area is still spectacular in size and scope. Only the largest of the stones remain ( 200 tones)but they are incredibly impressive. as awe inspriring as the pyramids, I think.
The city is attractive and very easy to get around. Everything is built of stone and the streets are clean (unlike Bolivia). There are not that many street vendors but there are a lot of husstlers. They spot a gringo a block away and they come for you. Mercifully, they take a no very well.
Last night I sat on the cathedral steps and I think I saw half of the population. I was offered everything from a hat, to a shoe shine, to Che cigarettes to cocaine. Had a nice long chat with a young man from Cusco and I was impressed by his English skills despite the fact he is just a street vendor.
It is a spectacularly beautiful area. The weather is very pleasant and only warm if you are in the sun. It is easy to see why the Incans made this their capital. At their zenith they controlled an area of 1,500 miles in length and this is where they made their capital.
There are many huge and well attended churches in Cusco. They are all built on the foundations of Incan buildings. My hotel is even on an old Incan building. The wall in the reception room is Incan. The blocks of stone are huge, perfectly alligned and no mortar. They were incredible architects. Too bad the Spainish used the blocks and thereby destroying the splendor to build their stuff.
The city was layed out by the Incas to be in the shape of a pumma (a sacred animal for them). There is a large mountain that overlooks the city and at top of the mountain was the "head" of the pumma. Took a hike up there and the views are spectacular of the valley that is Cusco. At the end of the valley you can see snow covered mountains. Much of the "head" has been removed for the stones but the area is still spectacular in size and scope. Only the largest of the stones remain ( 200 tones)but they are incredibly impressive. as awe inspriring as the pyramids, I think.
The city is attractive and very easy to get around. Everything is built of stone and the streets are clean (unlike Bolivia). There are not that many street vendors but there are a lot of husstlers. They spot a gringo a block away and they come for you. Mercifully, they take a no very well.
Last night I sat on the cathedral steps and I think I saw half of the population. I was offered everything from a hat, to a shoe shine, to Che cigarettes to cocaine. Had a nice long chat with a young man from Cusco and I was impressed by his English skills despite the fact he is just a street vendor.
It is a spectacularly beautiful area. The weather is very pleasant and only warm if you are in the sun. It is easy to see why the Incans made this their capital. At their zenith they controlled an area of 1,500 miles in length and this is where they made their capital.
Friday, October 21, 2011
The Best Bus Ride Ever
Took an all day bus ride from Puno to Cusco. The bus was better than first class in an plane. Huge leather seats, huge very clean windows, a full time escort and free lunch and drinks (non alcolholic) the whole way. We made 4stops along the way to view historic areas.
The ride to Cusco was rising in altitude for the first half. we reached nearly 15,000ft and were surrounded by snow covered mountains. After that there was a long gradual decent into Cusco. The valley was surrounded by huge mountains the whole way. The air warmed up noticeably and the terrain was very green. It was nice to see this after two weeks of barren landscape. All over the hills and mountains were terraced from the Inca times.
Our first stop was at an ancient archeological site. These pre-Incans cut off peoples heads and they ate babies. saw ancient statues showing this. When the Incans took over they ended this practice.
Another stop was at a temple that honored the most important god for the Incas (the sun). there still stands an Incan wall that is at least 30ft high. around the temple were the remains of many, many stone houses. the ancient city was also surrounded by a great wall. My guess is that the city was as big as one mile in each direction. Never saw so many stones.
Our final stop before Cusco was at a small town that has a church they call the Sistine Chapel of the Americas. Uninspiring from the outside but beautiful on the inside with many colorful oil paintings and gold leaf. It is because of the color they call it Sistine. Other than this, no comparison....I vote for the original.
It was build over an Incan temple so we could see the ancient stone foundation.
Made it to the hotel at night and found out I came in three days early when I thought i was only one day early. That is ok because this is a lovely city. and expensive and pushy compared to what I experiences in Bolivia. The weather is bright and clear but chilly in the shade and cold at night.
My hotel is a 17century Spanish villa with a gorgeous courtyard. More interesting, however, are the outside walls which are original Inca construction. the blocks of stone have very straight lines and no morter. Facinating to see this. It will be an easy place to camp out for a few days.
At night watched a couple of Seinfeld episodes and the World Series. It is a small world!
The ride to Cusco was rising in altitude for the first half. we reached nearly 15,000ft and were surrounded by snow covered mountains. After that there was a long gradual decent into Cusco. The valley was surrounded by huge mountains the whole way. The air warmed up noticeably and the terrain was very green. It was nice to see this after two weeks of barren landscape. All over the hills and mountains were terraced from the Inca times.
Our first stop was at an ancient archeological site. These pre-Incans cut off peoples heads and they ate babies. saw ancient statues showing this. When the Incans took over they ended this practice.
Another stop was at a temple that honored the most important god for the Incas (the sun). there still stands an Incan wall that is at least 30ft high. around the temple were the remains of many, many stone houses. the ancient city was also surrounded by a great wall. My guess is that the city was as big as one mile in each direction. Never saw so many stones.
Our final stop before Cusco was at a small town that has a church they call the Sistine Chapel of the Americas. Uninspiring from the outside but beautiful on the inside with many colorful oil paintings and gold leaf. It is because of the color they call it Sistine. Other than this, no comparison....I vote for the original.
It was build over an Incan temple so we could see the ancient stone foundation.
Made it to the hotel at night and found out I came in three days early when I thought i was only one day early. That is ok because this is a lovely city. and expensive and pushy compared to what I experiences in Bolivia. The weather is bright and clear but chilly in the shade and cold at night.
My hotel is a 17century Spanish villa with a gorgeous courtyard. More interesting, however, are the outside walls which are original Inca construction. the blocks of stone have very straight lines and no morter. Facinating to see this. It will be an easy place to camp out for a few days.
At night watched a couple of Seinfeld episodes and the World Series. It is a small world!
City of Music and Parades
Puno late at night. Walked around the town square at night and like most cities it was dominated b a huge stone (unattractive) church. During my brief walk I listented to a musical group (guitars and andean flutes), saw a parade bringing a huge float of Jesus into a church ( supported by a 30piece band) and then later came accross a street concert (two drummers and about 10men playing flutes). That was a lot to see in one night.
In the morning took a boat ride to the floating islands of Lake Titicaca. It sure was touristy but interesting. The islands were made of reeds and they really float. Some natives still live on them. it was cool to walk on the islands....it was like walking on the softest carpet you can imagine. The natives really ham it up for the visitors.
Later in the day took a long hike up a side of a mountain in the town. because of the altitude had to stop a few times to catch my breath. Specatcular views of the lake. I could hear the sounds of music in the distance.
At night ate in a pizza joint. Everywhere I go in Bolivia and Peru there are more pizza restaurants than all other restuarants combined. During my meal a band walked in and played us some traditional tunes. After dinner I walked right into a huge procession of students (and music) that went on late into the night. There were hundreds of college age students doing their dances as they marched down the street to the capital. It was fun visiting Puno because of the music. if it were not for this, there wasnt much to see or do. The town is somewhat run down and the sidewalks are only about 2ft wide so it made getting around difficult.
In the morning took a boat ride to the floating islands of Lake Titicaca. It sure was touristy but interesting. The islands were made of reeds and they really float. Some natives still live on them. it was cool to walk on the islands....it was like walking on the softest carpet you can imagine. The natives really ham it up for the visitors.
Later in the day took a long hike up a side of a mountain in the town. because of the altitude had to stop a few times to catch my breath. Specatcular views of the lake. I could hear the sounds of music in the distance.
At night ate in a pizza joint. Everywhere I go in Bolivia and Peru there are more pizza restaurants than all other restuarants combined. During my meal a band walked in and played us some traditional tunes. After dinner I walked right into a huge procession of students (and music) that went on late into the night. There were hundreds of college age students doing their dances as they marched down the street to the capital. It was fun visiting Puno because of the music. if it were not for this, there wasnt much to see or do. The town is somewhat run down and the sidewalks are only about 2ft wide so it made getting around difficult.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Shabby and dusty
After the four day journey, spent the afternoon and evening in a very poor city at the edge of the flats. My room was very basic and cost only $7 for the night. it even had cable tv and I spent part of the night watching CNN.
Many backpackers staying in this city. It is cheap and it is a gateway for the salt flats and the mountains. The residents of the city were neatly dressed and appeared to be reasonably happy.
I booked a flight in the morning to La Paz. The thought of an 8hr ride in a old cramped bus on dirt roads didnt appeal to me. A one hour flight in a very narrow plane (2 seats accross) was $125 and worth it! When walking to my seat on the plane I was nearly bent totally over so as not to hit my head.
I got to the airport one hour ahead of time and the only person there was a soldier walking along the runway. the cab driver drove me onto the runway and left me out there. There is a terminal that is new and two stories high. I walked in and there was no one. Despite being new, the place smelled like a toilet. Gradually people showed up and I was able to leave for civilization the in big city of La Paz. the approach to this very high city that is surrounded by the snow covered Andeas was breathtaking.
Upon arrival I went to the bus station to book a ride to Copacabana which is on the shore of Lake Titicaca. I couldnt get there because the city was closed because of a strike. It seems that the Bolivians are their own worst enemy. I booked instead a 5hr bus trip to Puno Peru.
I spent most the ride having a great time talking with a former Israelly soldier and now businessman. he was great company.
At the border with Peru, we had to get out of the bus and walk through customes and into Peru. The mass of life and commerce in this area was truly amazing. The Peruvians want Bolivain goods because they are so cheap. Apparently, the Bolivians get potatos in return. All the goods were being moved my bicycle. It sure looked and felt like a third world economy. Saw many money changers on the side of the road. Saw one man whip out a stack of $100 bills. They like US currency down here and at the ATMs, dollars can always be had.
The scenery along the lake to Puno was pastoral. Many of the hillsides were terraced with rock fences. Obviously, terraces from many hundreds of years ago. Made it to Puno after dark, got a nice hotel.
Many backpackers staying in this city. It is cheap and it is a gateway for the salt flats and the mountains. The residents of the city were neatly dressed and appeared to be reasonably happy.
I booked a flight in the morning to La Paz. The thought of an 8hr ride in a old cramped bus on dirt roads didnt appeal to me. A one hour flight in a very narrow plane (2 seats accross) was $125 and worth it! When walking to my seat on the plane I was nearly bent totally over so as not to hit my head.
I got to the airport one hour ahead of time and the only person there was a soldier walking along the runway. the cab driver drove me onto the runway and left me out there. There is a terminal that is new and two stories high. I walked in and there was no one. Despite being new, the place smelled like a toilet. Gradually people showed up and I was able to leave for civilization the in big city of La Paz. the approach to this very high city that is surrounded by the snow covered Andeas was breathtaking.
Upon arrival I went to the bus station to book a ride to Copacabana which is on the shore of Lake Titicaca. I couldnt get there because the city was closed because of a strike. It seems that the Bolivians are their own worst enemy. I booked instead a 5hr bus trip to Puno Peru.
I spent most the ride having a great time talking with a former Israelly soldier and now businessman. he was great company.
At the border with Peru, we had to get out of the bus and walk through customes and into Peru. The mass of life and commerce in this area was truly amazing. The Peruvians want Bolivain goods because they are so cheap. Apparently, the Bolivians get potatos in return. All the goods were being moved my bicycle. It sure looked and felt like a third world economy. Saw many money changers on the side of the road. Saw one man whip out a stack of $100 bills. They like US currency down here and at the ATMs, dollars can always be had.
The scenery along the lake to Puno was pastoral. Many of the hillsides were terraced with rock fences. Obviously, terraces from many hundreds of years ago. Made it to Puno after dark, got a nice hotel.
Four days in wild Bolivia
On Friday morning I started a four day journey into the wilds of Bolivia. My tour group consisted of three charming young ladies from England, a driver and our tour director Nancy, a native of Bolivia. We loaded a jeep with our personal needs, extra gas and food for four days. The day started off bright and cool as nearly every day seems to start in this part of the Americas.
After a mile of paved road we drove on very rugged and rocky trails for the next four days. Over the next four days we saw very few cars and few people. We were clearly entering a wild part of the world.
We never got below 13,000ft of elevation during any of the journey. At times were were nearly at 17,000ft. It is an inhosbitable land with incredibly bright sun,fierce winds and bone numbing cold at night. The ground cover is very sparse. the Altiplano is essentially a cold desert. There is green moss scattered about and it grows at only one millimeter a year. The only snow we saw were on the high peaks that border Chile.
Our evening accomodations were very sparse. no light, no heat and shared rooms (the girls sure liked to talk so I just pretended I was sleeping). It was essentially like living in a tent with cement walls. It got so cold at night it was difficult to sleep. I got to dislike Bolivian food too. One day all I consumed was Coca Cola.
Well into the highlands we visited a Spanish ghost town that was 300yrs old. There were numerous rock walls remaining from the houses and three churches that were part of the city. It was incredible that the Spanish could establish a city in this hostile environment. Food and water are not available from this land so I wonder how they survived. The drive to get silver apparently overcame the odds.
We saw large herds of llamas grazing on this harsh land. How they were able to locate food is a mystery to me. The llamas were the only mammals we saw except for dogs in the small villages that we visited.
One of the highlights of this journey is to see the high mountain lakes. One was dark red ( due to the algae), and another a greenish blue. What made the lakes especially interesting were the large flocks of flamingos that were feeding in the lakes. One type of flamingo we saw is extremely rare. I always thought flamingos lived in tropical sea areas.
The mountains in this part of Bolivia are immense (nearly 20,000ft) and all of them are extinct volcanos. Many were very conical in shape with just the top off and some were mountains with the side blown off. The mountains were not in a chain but spread out over the vast landscape. You began to feel like you were on another planet and not on earth.
On the final night we stayed in a motel made of salt. It was located at the edge of the great salt flat called the Solar. It is so huge that it is easily seen from space. I bet it is almost the size of Lake Erie. I took an evening walk on our last night before we entered that flats and I saw many stone walls running up a hill side. these stone fences were in great shape and they were from the age of the Incas. It is so interesting to see so many well constructed stone walls that predate the arrival of the Spanish.
Our final day was a drive accross the great salt flat. Given the altitude and the intense sun, the experience of being on the flat felt other worldly. Within the flats there are about 20 islands. we vistied the larest of them. It was covered with ancient cactus and it was occuppied by the Incas. On top of the island, human and animal sacrifices were made.
At the end of the flat we saw many men working with shovels, scraping the salt and loading it by hand onto trucks. It was sad to see such inefficient use of human labor.
It was a facinating four days. My group got along wonderfully and we all have many memories of a very unique experience.
After a mile of paved road we drove on very rugged and rocky trails for the next four days. Over the next four days we saw very few cars and few people. We were clearly entering a wild part of the world.
We never got below 13,000ft of elevation during any of the journey. At times were were nearly at 17,000ft. It is an inhosbitable land with incredibly bright sun,fierce winds and bone numbing cold at night. The ground cover is very sparse. the Altiplano is essentially a cold desert. There is green moss scattered about and it grows at only one millimeter a year. The only snow we saw were on the high peaks that border Chile.
Our evening accomodations were very sparse. no light, no heat and shared rooms (the girls sure liked to talk so I just pretended I was sleeping). It was essentially like living in a tent with cement walls. It got so cold at night it was difficult to sleep. I got to dislike Bolivian food too. One day all I consumed was Coca Cola.
Well into the highlands we visited a Spanish ghost town that was 300yrs old. There were numerous rock walls remaining from the houses and three churches that were part of the city. It was incredible that the Spanish could establish a city in this hostile environment. Food and water are not available from this land so I wonder how they survived. The drive to get silver apparently overcame the odds.
We saw large herds of llamas grazing on this harsh land. How they were able to locate food is a mystery to me. The llamas were the only mammals we saw except for dogs in the small villages that we visited.
One of the highlights of this journey is to see the high mountain lakes. One was dark red ( due to the algae), and another a greenish blue. What made the lakes especially interesting were the large flocks of flamingos that were feeding in the lakes. One type of flamingo we saw is extremely rare. I always thought flamingos lived in tropical sea areas.
The mountains in this part of Bolivia are immense (nearly 20,000ft) and all of them are extinct volcanos. Many were very conical in shape with just the top off and some were mountains with the side blown off. The mountains were not in a chain but spread out over the vast landscape. You began to feel like you were on another planet and not on earth.
On the final night we stayed in a motel made of salt. It was located at the edge of the great salt flat called the Solar. It is so huge that it is easily seen from space. I bet it is almost the size of Lake Erie. I took an evening walk on our last night before we entered that flats and I saw many stone walls running up a hill side. these stone fences were in great shape and they were from the age of the Incas. It is so interesting to see so many well constructed stone walls that predate the arrival of the Spanish.
Our final day was a drive accross the great salt flat. Given the altitude and the intense sun, the experience of being on the flat felt other worldly. Within the flats there are about 20 islands. we vistied the larest of them. It was covered with ancient cactus and it was occuppied by the Incas. On top of the island, human and animal sacrifices were made.
At the end of the flat we saw many men working with shovels, scraping the salt and loading it by hand onto trucks. It was sad to see such inefficient use of human labor.
It was a facinating four days. My group got along wonderfully and we all have many memories of a very unique experience.
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Long Bus Ride
Got up very early to take a bus to Tupiza only to end of waiting for the bus to leave. it is a 6hr journey to Tupiza in southern Bolivia and much of the ride is over dirt road. the bus ticket cost $8. We left Potosi by climbing up the hill to the base of the infamous silver mountain. Saw lots of men around the base of the mountain with their jaws stuffed with coca. It is so sad to see the scarred mountain and to see the hovels that surround it. We rounded the base of the mountain which gave you a good sense of what 450yrs of mining will do to the landscape.
The bus was not as user friendly as an American would expect. Early in the ride a well dressed young man got up in the isle and begain talking animately. I thought he was telling us more than what we needed to know about the ride. Wrong! He was trying to pitch us a health drink. after 15minutes he sat down. 5hrs later we made a stop in a dusty town for convenience. lA new fellow got on the bus and he looked scary. He had long stringy hair (unusual for Bolivia), a goatee (also unusual), and a huge belt buckle that had a skull and cross bones, and well dressed. He was taling very excitedly and I thought it was all about politics. He started to get me a bit nervous because I was the only gringo and I tried to act calm and not look him in the eyes. After about 20minutes I realized he was a medicine man. He was pitching fish oil pills (from Japan) as the cure all. he went on for well over an hour and he talked some poor folks into spending a lot of money. I did hear him say this, ¨¨:yes, it costs only 60 Bolivianos (about $8) and that is not US dollars. Despite that fact that the USA is considered an enemy by the current regime, I see $ mentioned frequently. At the atms you can get US$ if you want. The ride seemed to take forever. The landscape was rugged, mountainous, very dry and covered with rock walls and structures, some inhabited and others not.
Got to Tupiza around 2pm and had a chance to walk around the city. It is small, clean and very quiet. there is very little traffic and you can walk in the street. the people seem happy and a number of them look Spanish as opposed to indigenous. the city has palm trees and it is surrounded by huge mountains of rock. Looks a lot like Utah or west Colorado. A pleasant place for the night. the hotel cost $15 and I had a grilled meat dinner (3meats), all the fixins and a glass of wine....$6.50.
Tomorrow it is off on a 4day jeep safari into some of the most geologically active land in the world. Should be very interesting. the nightly accomodations will be very, very basic. there are only three others in my group and they are all women. this should be very interesting. And, we sleep in a dormitory room at night. This is way more than I bargained for! (likely they are in their 20´s, been traveling for months and are on a very different wave length than me....i have met many of these types in my journeys so far.)
The bus was not as user friendly as an American would expect. Early in the ride a well dressed young man got up in the isle and begain talking animately. I thought he was telling us more than what we needed to know about the ride. Wrong! He was trying to pitch us a health drink. after 15minutes he sat down. 5hrs later we made a stop in a dusty town for convenience. lA new fellow got on the bus and he looked scary. He had long stringy hair (unusual for Bolivia), a goatee (also unusual), and a huge belt buckle that had a skull and cross bones, and well dressed. He was taling very excitedly and I thought it was all about politics. He started to get me a bit nervous because I was the only gringo and I tried to act calm and not look him in the eyes. After about 20minutes I realized he was a medicine man. He was pitching fish oil pills (from Japan) as the cure all. he went on for well over an hour and he talked some poor folks into spending a lot of money. I did hear him say this, ¨¨:yes, it costs only 60 Bolivianos (about $8) and that is not US dollars. Despite that fact that the USA is considered an enemy by the current regime, I see $ mentioned frequently. At the atms you can get US$ if you want. The ride seemed to take forever. The landscape was rugged, mountainous, very dry and covered with rock walls and structures, some inhabited and others not.
Got to Tupiza around 2pm and had a chance to walk around the city. It is small, clean and very quiet. there is very little traffic and you can walk in the street. the people seem happy and a number of them look Spanish as opposed to indigenous. the city has palm trees and it is surrounded by huge mountains of rock. Looks a lot like Utah or west Colorado. A pleasant place for the night. the hotel cost $15 and I had a grilled meat dinner (3meats), all the fixins and a glass of wine....$6.50.
Tomorrow it is off on a 4day jeep safari into some of the most geologically active land in the world. Should be very interesting. the nightly accomodations will be very, very basic. there are only three others in my group and they are all women. this should be very interesting. And, we sleep in a dormitory room at night. This is way more than I bargained for! (likely they are in their 20´s, been traveling for months and are on a very different wave length than me....i have met many of these types in my journeys so far.)
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Hell on Earth
awoke to the sound of dynamite going off. apparently the miner groups (there are 40 of them with no governmental controls) set of large amounts of dynamite to celebrate anniversaries, etc. walked ar d the city in a gorgeous early morning sun and admired the interested architecture and stone sculptures of the churchs. i figured the there would not be enough to do for the day so i took a mining trip into the great mountain at the edge of the city. what an experience. (this computer doesnt allow me to make caps or other key strokes so forgive what looks crude).
our guide was a real character. he first took us to a street store and there are many of them to buy gifts for the miners. we had to buy a bag of coca, a bottle 99% pure alchohol, a giant bottle of juice and a pair of gloves- the cost was $4. the street clerk also sold sticks of dynamite. our guide immediately began shoving coca leaves into his mouth as he explained what we were about to do. he was also taking some of the pure alcohol and smoking cigarettes. we were at 14,000 ft of elevation and all i wanted was more oxygen. we got to the base of the mine entrance (the mountain is covered with entrances since they have been mining here for 450yrs) and stood around for a long time. watching the work outside was sad...ugly surroundings(rocks, garbage and nothing green). many workers doing everything manually and sad looking stone homes right at the base of the mountain.
We spend about 2.5hrs in the mine. initially it was very cool but once we got further into the mountain it got hot. we must have walked at least a half mile into the mine. the walk was very difficult because of low lying rocks and pipes. if it were not for my helment i would now have a flat head. along the way we saw numerous small tunnels leading into darkness and many very deap holes. the miners work in horrid conditions and it is not uncommon for them to work 18hrs at a stretch. they never eat while working. they drink pure alcohol. juice and huge wads of coca. for this work they make very little. maybe $15-20 a day. the average age of a minor is very young because they tend to die of either accidents or of lung disease by the time they are 40. after over 2hrs in the mine i was sure happy to get out. the estimates of the number of men who died in the mines over the centuries ranges to 12,000,000. it is amazing to me that i knew nothing of this place until i cam here.
toured a few of the churches today and they represent the enourmous wealth that the city generated over the centuries. if the churches were not made of stone they cenrtainly would be in falling down due to a lack of care. the cathedral is in the 5th year of a 6yr rennovation. the inside was magnificant. lots of color and gold leaf- apparently the japanese government is paying for the rennovation. we climed to the bell tower and at this elevation it is a challenge to the lungs. at the top (150 feet above the street) there was one bell that weighs 4 tones.- it was build in Potosi in 1807 and it was made of bronze and gold-
I am ready to leave Potosi in the morning. i would go crazy if i had to stay here for another day. saw everthing in a day and a half.
In the morning I hope to find a bus to take me to a small city in souther Boliva called Tupiza. it is famous because Butch Cassidy and the SUndance Kid hung out there and were killed nearby. from there i am taking a 4day jeep ride into the great Bolivian salt flats. if you look at Google maps you can readily see it as a great white spot. once I leave Potosi I may not have communication for at least 5days. I will be in some pretty disolete but dramatic areas of the country.
our guide was a real character. he first took us to a street store and there are many of them to buy gifts for the miners. we had to buy a bag of coca, a bottle 99% pure alchohol, a giant bottle of juice and a pair of gloves- the cost was $4. the street clerk also sold sticks of dynamite. our guide immediately began shoving coca leaves into his mouth as he explained what we were about to do. he was also taking some of the pure alcohol and smoking cigarettes. we were at 14,000 ft of elevation and all i wanted was more oxygen. we got to the base of the mine entrance (the mountain is covered with entrances since they have been mining here for 450yrs) and stood around for a long time. watching the work outside was sad...ugly surroundings(rocks, garbage and nothing green). many workers doing everything manually and sad looking stone homes right at the base of the mountain.
We spend about 2.5hrs in the mine. initially it was very cool but once we got further into the mountain it got hot. we must have walked at least a half mile into the mine. the walk was very difficult because of low lying rocks and pipes. if it were not for my helment i would now have a flat head. along the way we saw numerous small tunnels leading into darkness and many very deap holes. the miners work in horrid conditions and it is not uncommon for them to work 18hrs at a stretch. they never eat while working. they drink pure alcohol. juice and huge wads of coca. for this work they make very little. maybe $15-20 a day. the average age of a minor is very young because they tend to die of either accidents or of lung disease by the time they are 40. after over 2hrs in the mine i was sure happy to get out. the estimates of the number of men who died in the mines over the centuries ranges to 12,000,000. it is amazing to me that i knew nothing of this place until i cam here.
toured a few of the churches today and they represent the enourmous wealth that the city generated over the centuries. if the churches were not made of stone they cenrtainly would be in falling down due to a lack of care. the cathedral is in the 5th year of a 6yr rennovation. the inside was magnificant. lots of color and gold leaf- apparently the japanese government is paying for the rennovation. we climed to the bell tower and at this elevation it is a challenge to the lungs. at the top (150 feet above the street) there was one bell that weighs 4 tones.- it was build in Potosi in 1807 and it was made of bronze and gold-
I am ready to leave Potosi in the morning. i would go crazy if i had to stay here for another day. saw everthing in a day and a half.
In the morning I hope to find a bus to take me to a small city in souther Boliva called Tupiza. it is famous because Butch Cassidy and the SUndance Kid hung out there and were killed nearby. from there i am taking a 4day jeep ride into the great Bolivian salt flats. if you look at Google maps you can readily see it as a great white spot. once I leave Potosi I may not have communication for at least 5days. I will be in some pretty disolete but dramatic areas of the country.
Potosi
Took a bus from the beautiful city of Sucre to the famous silver city of Potosi. 100 miles up hill in a crowded Bolivian bus. cost $2:25. the seats were tiny for my long legs. every time the bus slowed ladies would run up to the windows with baked goods, etc. the cleanliness looked very suspèct so I passed. It was just like what you see in the movies. The terrain is very stark and brown.
Arrived to Potosi around noon and I decided to hike to the town square and not take a cab. Good way to see things but the altitude (over 13,000 ft) made the climb tough. The city is busy with street vendors and people milling about. it is not dirty but very worn and because of this it feels dirty. After some effort found the city square and a place to stay ($20 per night, and this is the nice palce).
The center of Potosi was very fashionable up to one hundred years ago. The decline in the silver mining meant the decline of the city. What is noteworthy about the city are the huge stone churches, some of which were built around 1600. It appears most of the churches are closed and the ones that are open get very few visitors. I toured one church with a spanish speaking guuide. I understood only a little but I kept saying ¨Si¨to make her think I understood it all. The private tour cost $2. the church and the monestary covers a full city block. It was all surprisingly good shape. Apparently the wealthy were buried in the church and I was taken to the catacombs underneath the alter. Although immense and obviously built at great expense, the artistic beauty of the church was minimal.
There are very few tourists in the city and most that I do see are very young. Bolivia is a great place for the young to travel because of the low cost and great natural beauty.
Potosi had an immense impact on the world. the discovery of the greatest deposit of silver ever found resulted in more Spanish imperialism, the death of upwards of 9mm miners which greatly impacted the Andean culture, and inflation and resulting unrest in Europe. It is sad walking around this city and thinking about the impact that the Spanish had.
Today I am going to see the major museum in the city. at one time the building that houses the museum minted all the coins for Europe. If there is time I also hope to take a tour of the working silver mines. In the USA one would never be allowed to do this so it will be a unique experience.
After the beauty of Sucre, one more day in Potosi will be adequate.
Got a beauty of a black eye last ngiht. I went into an ATM enclosure. there were two machines so I went to the one further away. I didnt see a glass wall that separted them. Naturally, I walked into it and most of the impact was on my eyebrow. boy is my eye black this morning! But that is the worst of it, thankfully.
Arrived to Potosi around noon and I decided to hike to the town square and not take a cab. Good way to see things but the altitude (over 13,000 ft) made the climb tough. The city is busy with street vendors and people milling about. it is not dirty but very worn and because of this it feels dirty. After some effort found the city square and a place to stay ($20 per night, and this is the nice palce).
The center of Potosi was very fashionable up to one hundred years ago. The decline in the silver mining meant the decline of the city. What is noteworthy about the city are the huge stone churches, some of which were built around 1600. It appears most of the churches are closed and the ones that are open get very few visitors. I toured one church with a spanish speaking guuide. I understood only a little but I kept saying ¨Si¨to make her think I understood it all. The private tour cost $2. the church and the monestary covers a full city block. It was all surprisingly good shape. Apparently the wealthy were buried in the church and I was taken to the catacombs underneath the alter. Although immense and obviously built at great expense, the artistic beauty of the church was minimal.
There are very few tourists in the city and most that I do see are very young. Bolivia is a great place for the young to travel because of the low cost and great natural beauty.
Potosi had an immense impact on the world. the discovery of the greatest deposit of silver ever found resulted in more Spanish imperialism, the death of upwards of 9mm miners which greatly impacted the Andean culture, and inflation and resulting unrest in Europe. It is sad walking around this city and thinking about the impact that the Spanish had.
Today I am going to see the major museum in the city. at one time the building that houses the museum minted all the coins for Europe. If there is time I also hope to take a tour of the working silver mines. In the USA one would never be allowed to do this so it will be a unique experience.
After the beauty of Sucre, one more day in Potosi will be adequate.
Got a beauty of a black eye last ngiht. I went into an ATM enclosure. there were two machines so I went to the one further away. I didnt see a glass wall that separted them. Naturally, I walked into it and most of the impact was on my eyebrow. boy is my eye black this morning! But that is the worst of it, thankfully.
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
The White City
Took a flight on Sunday from La Paz to the former capital city of Sucre. It was a 45minute flight in a modern Boeing aircraft and the cost was $60. Everthing went smoothly. The Bolivian TSA confiscated my cork screw. In the USA I got through security with it.
We flew over the Altiplano. It is a rugged and harsh landscape with an elevation that averages around 10k in elevation. As we approached Sucre, some trees began to appear and the landscape looked slightly less harsh.
A quick cab ride to center city and to a very attractive hotel in city center ($40/night). The hotel used to be a 18th century home....what a home! 4 floors and a big central courtyard with a fountain, etc. The breakfast was as good a breakfast as I ever had. You sure can live well and cheap in Bolivia.
Sucre was the most desirable city in Bolivia by the Spanish because of its nearness to the silver mines and because of its very temperate weather. They began to colonize the area in the 16th century with the 17th and 18th century being the height of its glory. The city square is magnificant with a huge cathedral and public buildings. Very impressive. there are a number of churches in the downtown area. Also there are some of the oldest colleges in the Americas. Everything in the center city is white, thus the nick name of the White City. The feeling is that you are in a European city and not a city in the poorest country in South America.
The city feels very different from La Paz. The people appear to be more sophisticated in general, the streets are clean and the poverty doesnt appear to be as severe. Saw very few women in the traditional indigenous dress: the long billowing skirt, the colorful wrap and the goofy hat.
Tour a few of the churches and the wealth of the city in the 17th & 18th century is very apparent. Much silver, many jewels and many quality paintings. Some said that even the alters are solid silver.
Not too many tourists around so I am really getting a feel of the local society. I did however, meet my second young couple who were finishing a one year trip around the world. they are from London, about 30yrs old, successful and enjoyable to talk with.
One side trip yesterday was to an old quarry on the edge of town. Along a cliff face of white marble or limestone were hundreds of dinosaur footprints of different sizes. They were in very sharp relief and facinating to view. The only trouble was that the bus that dropped us off (3 of us) didnt come back for well over an hour. You only need 5minutes at most to view the footprints.
This morning I am off to Potosi which is the highest city in the world at over 13k feet. Will take a bus and should only cost about $3 for a 100mile trip. I could take a cab for $40 but that would not be fun.
We flew over the Altiplano. It is a rugged and harsh landscape with an elevation that averages around 10k in elevation. As we approached Sucre, some trees began to appear and the landscape looked slightly less harsh.
A quick cab ride to center city and to a very attractive hotel in city center ($40/night). The hotel used to be a 18th century home....what a home! 4 floors and a big central courtyard with a fountain, etc. The breakfast was as good a breakfast as I ever had. You sure can live well and cheap in Bolivia.
Sucre was the most desirable city in Bolivia by the Spanish because of its nearness to the silver mines and because of its very temperate weather. They began to colonize the area in the 16th century with the 17th and 18th century being the height of its glory. The city square is magnificant with a huge cathedral and public buildings. Very impressive. there are a number of churches in the downtown area. Also there are some of the oldest colleges in the Americas. Everything in the center city is white, thus the nick name of the White City. The feeling is that you are in a European city and not a city in the poorest country in South America.
The city feels very different from La Paz. The people appear to be more sophisticated in general, the streets are clean and the poverty doesnt appear to be as severe. Saw very few women in the traditional indigenous dress: the long billowing skirt, the colorful wrap and the goofy hat.
Tour a few of the churches and the wealth of the city in the 17th & 18th century is very apparent. Much silver, many jewels and many quality paintings. Some said that even the alters are solid silver.
Not too many tourists around so I am really getting a feel of the local society. I did however, meet my second young couple who were finishing a one year trip around the world. they are from London, about 30yrs old, successful and enjoyable to talk with.
One side trip yesterday was to an old quarry on the edge of town. Along a cliff face of white marble or limestone were hundreds of dinosaur footprints of different sizes. They were in very sharp relief and facinating to view. The only trouble was that the bus that dropped us off (3 of us) didnt come back for well over an hour. You only need 5minutes at most to view the footprints.
This morning I am off to Potosi which is the highest city in the world at over 13k feet. Will take a bus and should only cost about $3 for a 100mile trip. I could take a cab for $40 but that would not be fun.
Monday, October 10, 2011
The ride of death
Met with other adventurers early Saturday for a bike ride that would take us from a mountain top at 15.3K (cold) to the jungle at 3K feet (hot). Most of the 40mile ride was downhill. the catch to the ride was that half of it would be on the ¨Death Road or the most dangerous road in the world. The first half of the ride was on paved road and we skirted by huge mountains. The guide said he has only seen scenery this dramatic in one other place: Yosemite. The Death Road was unpaved and fortunately limited traffic because of a new road recently replaced it. The road was of course gravel and there were no guard rails. At times it was only 8ft wide and had drops of over 1,000 feet. Sounds scary but I never felt at risk. we had a good guide and good equipment. The road got its name because for years it was the only link between La Paz and the jungle. Tractor trailor trucks and buses used this road. How they negotiated it and to do it with uncoming traffic is a mystery to me. Typically 200 to 300 people died a year on this road. Now with little traffic, the bike ride is more for the scenery and for bragging rights. An interesting side note: there was only one home on the entire road and it belonged to Klaus Barbie, the Butcher of Lyon. He was protected for years by the US and by Bolivia.
At the end of the ride we had a chance to take 3 zip lines across three deep valleys. After the bike ride I was ready for anything. If I was rested and more mentally alert I would have been scared silly. The equipement looked good and I went for it. One more item that is now off my list of things to do!
We had a parting dinner had a wildlife sanctuary. They have more monkeys than anthing. The monkeys are in a huge natural enclosure. I went in and soon had a rather large spider monkey jump up on my shoulders and began scratching at my head. Never would I have expected an experience like that! They have no claws so the guy actually felt soft to me and his hands smooth.
That was a lot for one day. But wait. We drove back ti La Paz on the death road near dusk. Fortunately, I was sitting in the back of the van so I couldnt see the driving over the narrow unprotected roads. About a third of the way into the ride, the suspension gave out. We had to stop and either fix it (how?) or get a lift from someone (but there was no cell signal and the road was deserted) or we ride our bikes back to a destitute village (but it was getting dark). That was the scariest part of the entire day. On the dealth road, no vehicle and it is getting dark. After much inspecting and jacking up the vehicle a number of times, the driver took three bike inner tubes and wrapped them around the fractured suspension. Yeah right! this was going to work. Amazingly it did and we all lived to see another day!
That was one long day of adventure. it would be hard to top this during my journey but there are more adventures ahead, so maybe! It was a very satisfying and full day. Made friends with a family from Lima and we are planning to get together a day before I depart Lima for home.
At the end of the ride we had a chance to take 3 zip lines across three deep valleys. After the bike ride I was ready for anything. If I was rested and more mentally alert I would have been scared silly. The equipement looked good and I went for it. One more item that is now off my list of things to do!
We had a parting dinner had a wildlife sanctuary. They have more monkeys than anthing. The monkeys are in a huge natural enclosure. I went in and soon had a rather large spider monkey jump up on my shoulders and began scratching at my head. Never would I have expected an experience like that! They have no claws so the guy actually felt soft to me and his hands smooth.
That was a lot for one day. But wait. We drove back ti La Paz on the death road near dusk. Fortunately, I was sitting in the back of the van so I couldnt see the driving over the narrow unprotected roads. About a third of the way into the ride, the suspension gave out. We had to stop and either fix it (how?) or get a lift from someone (but there was no cell signal and the road was deserted) or we ride our bikes back to a destitute village (but it was getting dark). That was the scariest part of the entire day. On the dealth road, no vehicle and it is getting dark. After much inspecting and jacking up the vehicle a number of times, the driver took three bike inner tubes and wrapped them around the fractured suspension. Yeah right! this was going to work. Amazingly it did and we all lived to see another day!
That was one long day of adventure. it would be hard to top this during my journey but there are more adventures ahead, so maybe! It was a very satisfying and full day. Made friends with a family from Lima and we are planning to get together a day before I depart Lima for home.
Outside La Paz
After a day recovering from an all night flight and the altitude I was ready to go. Thursday morning was cool, bright and partly cloudy. In La Paz you can not get lost. When you dont know where you are just walk downhill and you will arrive in center city. the lower you go the better the buildings and residences. The lower you go the warmer the weather. The streets were very busy in the morning with demonstations. There was a two day general strike.
I spent the day wandering around the city and visiting the less than spectacular museums. the best part of La Paz is the people watching. Visited a few major churches. Unremarkable except for the variety and mass of fresh flowers at all the side alters. I continued to be amazed by the number of street vendors. For lunch I went to an Indian restuarant. Excellent food and served by Europeans. Didnt see any Indians.
On Friday took a tour to one of the most archilogically important sites in the Andean region. the name of the society and city is Tiwanuku. A short drive from the city brought us to a great plan surrounded by low lying mountains. We drove through very depressed areas. Clearly a third world country. We were a small group and the other tourists we saw were Bolivian school children. There are two museums to visit and the remains of temples. The society goes back more than 3k years and it reached its zenith about 1,000AD. they were the precursers to the Inca empire. The first museum was pathetic. The ceilings were falling down and the only relic in the building was a 30foot tall figure carved from sandstone. It was unremarkable but probably the key treasure remaining. The other museum had the usual pottery, etc. The outside buildings were bassically reconstructed from stones that had not been taken by the railroad or for other construction. A few observatonst: huge blocks of stone (some weighing more than 100 tons) were hauled from miles awy with out the use of the wheel; they did not do human sacrifice; at its height the population exceeded 1mm people; the night skies were very important to their philosophy (building were positioned for the movement of the sun. they coordinated this with other of their buildings that were miles away), and, their agricultural practices were very sophisticated. They were able to get production many times more than traditioanl methods and they used techniques that protected the crops from frost and hard freezes. It is their agricultural genius that enabled the society to flourish.
The ride back to La Paz was beautiful. We could see the great Andean peaks in the distance (20k ft) and upon arriving to La Paz we got vistas of the city that were dramatic.
I spent the day wandering around the city and visiting the less than spectacular museums. the best part of La Paz is the people watching. Visited a few major churches. Unremarkable except for the variety and mass of fresh flowers at all the side alters. I continued to be amazed by the number of street vendors. For lunch I went to an Indian restuarant. Excellent food and served by Europeans. Didnt see any Indians.
On Friday took a tour to one of the most archilogically important sites in the Andean region. the name of the society and city is Tiwanuku. A short drive from the city brought us to a great plan surrounded by low lying mountains. We drove through very depressed areas. Clearly a third world country. We were a small group and the other tourists we saw were Bolivian school children. There are two museums to visit and the remains of temples. The society goes back more than 3k years and it reached its zenith about 1,000AD. they were the precursers to the Inca empire. The first museum was pathetic. The ceilings were falling down and the only relic in the building was a 30foot tall figure carved from sandstone. It was unremarkable but probably the key treasure remaining. The other museum had the usual pottery, etc. The outside buildings were bassically reconstructed from stones that had not been taken by the railroad or for other construction. A few observatonst: huge blocks of stone (some weighing more than 100 tons) were hauled from miles awy with out the use of the wheel; they did not do human sacrifice; at its height the population exceeded 1mm people; the night skies were very important to their philosophy (building were positioned for the movement of the sun. they coordinated this with other of their buildings that were miles away), and, their agricultural practices were very sophisticated. They were able to get production many times more than traditioanl methods and they used techniques that protected the crops from frost and hard freezes. It is their agricultural genius that enabled the society to flourish.
The ride back to La Paz was beautiful. We could see the great Andean peaks in the distance (20k ft) and upon arriving to La Paz we got vistas of the city that were dramatic.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
La Paz
I arrived to La Paz from Miami at 5.20am Wednesday. The airport is the highest international airport in the world, at over 13k ft in altitude. The flight is the only direct flight from the USA and only about 60 people got off the plane. I guess La Paz doesnt get many US visitors.
Immediately, the effects of altitude are apparent. Walking feels laborious and you almost feel like you are searching for oxygen atoms. After the customs baloney, $135 for a visa, I located an atm machine and got some Bolivianos. As i was leaving to catch a cab I heard a public address anouncement. In Spanish, of course, and I didnt under stand a thing other than i thought I heard my name. it sounded like, senor Pool Batez. I thought it couldnt be me! But i located the information booth just in case. it was me! I left my atm card at the machine. They gave it back to me and saved my trip! What a way to get started. I have heard so much about being on guard for thieves and con artists and my first experience deals with honesty. A great start for the trip! Trust people but dont be played for a fool.
It is a long downhill ride to the city. The area around the airport is huge but looks desperately poor. The view of the city as you go down the rode is incredible. La Paz is a big gash in the earth and there are houses and skyscrapers lining the center of the gash, downtown La Paz, and houses clinging up the sides of the mountains. Never saw anything like it. At night when you are downtown you are surrounded by an awesome view of the twinkling lights of houses that cling to the mountain sides.
The city looks always busy and it appears to me to be larger than the stated population of 1.25million. There is traffic but it moves constantly and surprisingly orderly. Then I realize why. More than half the vehicles are buses and cabs. the buses range from mini vans to full size vans. They always seem to be full of people. It is a poor city so there are relatively few personal autos and there is no public transit other than these vans. I think anyone with a vehicle can just slap up a sign and go into business.
There are many small food stands on the streets. sometimes 6 or more on a block. These stands would easily fit into most American closets. They are all jammed with soda, bottled water, and prepackaged snack foods. There are also many vendors just sitting on the pavement. it looks like half of the citizens of La Paz are in business to sell to the other half.
I find the Bolivians to be gentle people, reserved and very helpful if you need help. They are proud but one senses that they are resigned to a relatively hard life.
This said, however, they love to protest. Apparently, the Bolivians are known for protesting. Marches and rallies are common. On one day there were several going on at once. You see a lot of police. On the day I saw the protest there were a number of police in riot gear. It is hard to imagine these peaceful looking people becoming violent. but unfortuntaley, that is there history and maybe their culture. I saw a huge statue of Che and other statues of famous Bolivians with rifles over their shoulders. I also saw a very large monument to Christopher Columbus. I cant think of ever seeing a statue of Colubus in the USA. Maybe he started the problems in Bolivia because after him came the Spanish in their quest for gold and silver which resulted in the domination of the existing culture.
The president of Bolivia is the first indigenous Bolivian to be elected president. he grew up on a poor farm where the crop was coca. Naturally, he is pro coca and thus anti American. One of his first acts was to kick out the US Ambassador. Despite this, I have been treated very kindly and would have more problems being an American if I went to Quebec City!
Immediately, the effects of altitude are apparent. Walking feels laborious and you almost feel like you are searching for oxygen atoms. After the customs baloney, $135 for a visa, I located an atm machine and got some Bolivianos. As i was leaving to catch a cab I heard a public address anouncement. In Spanish, of course, and I didnt under stand a thing other than i thought I heard my name. it sounded like, senor Pool Batez. I thought it couldnt be me! But i located the information booth just in case. it was me! I left my atm card at the machine. They gave it back to me and saved my trip! What a way to get started. I have heard so much about being on guard for thieves and con artists and my first experience deals with honesty. A great start for the trip! Trust people but dont be played for a fool.
It is a long downhill ride to the city. The area around the airport is huge but looks desperately poor. The view of the city as you go down the rode is incredible. La Paz is a big gash in the earth and there are houses and skyscrapers lining the center of the gash, downtown La Paz, and houses clinging up the sides of the mountains. Never saw anything like it. At night when you are downtown you are surrounded by an awesome view of the twinkling lights of houses that cling to the mountain sides.
The city looks always busy and it appears to me to be larger than the stated population of 1.25million. There is traffic but it moves constantly and surprisingly orderly. Then I realize why. More than half the vehicles are buses and cabs. the buses range from mini vans to full size vans. They always seem to be full of people. It is a poor city so there are relatively few personal autos and there is no public transit other than these vans. I think anyone with a vehicle can just slap up a sign and go into business.
There are many small food stands on the streets. sometimes 6 or more on a block. These stands would easily fit into most American closets. They are all jammed with soda, bottled water, and prepackaged snack foods. There are also many vendors just sitting on the pavement. it looks like half of the citizens of La Paz are in business to sell to the other half.
I find the Bolivians to be gentle people, reserved and very helpful if you need help. They are proud but one senses that they are resigned to a relatively hard life.
This said, however, they love to protest. Apparently, the Bolivians are known for protesting. Marches and rallies are common. On one day there were several going on at once. You see a lot of police. On the day I saw the protest there were a number of police in riot gear. It is hard to imagine these peaceful looking people becoming violent. but unfortuntaley, that is there history and maybe their culture. I saw a huge statue of Che and other statues of famous Bolivians with rifles over their shoulders. I also saw a very large monument to Christopher Columbus. I cant think of ever seeing a statue of Colubus in the USA. Maybe he started the problems in Bolivia because after him came the Spanish in their quest for gold and silver which resulted in the domination of the existing culture.
The president of Bolivia is the first indigenous Bolivian to be elected president. he grew up on a poor farm where the crop was coca. Naturally, he is pro coca and thus anti American. One of his first acts was to kick out the US Ambassador. Despite this, I have been treated very kindly and would have more problems being an American if I went to Quebec City!
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Bolivia
I am back at it. After a summer in Erie (no better place in the world during summer) it is time for me to move on. This blog will serve as both a vehicle to inform friends who are interested and to proved me with a convenient form for a diary of my travels.
Bolivia is a huge country but thinly populated. It is the size of California and Texas combined (if you ever drove across Texas and/or down California you will have some idea how big it is). Despite its size, more people live in LA than in all of Bolivia (10mm).
There are two major cities in Bolivia: La Paz with a population of 2mm and Santa Cruz with a population of over 1mm. La Paz is effectively the capital of Bolivia with the true capital still in the mountain city of Sucre.
Not many tourists come to Bolivia. There is only one direct flight a day to Bolivia from the USA and it arrives at 5:30AM. Less than one hundred passengers got off at La Paz and most of them were Bolivian nationals. It is interesting that there are so few tourists when there is much to see. The natural beautry of the country is as wonderful as any where in the world. There are many mountains that reach nearly 20k feet. The east side of the mountains are jungle and part of the Amazon River basin. The ancient ruins and massive ruins of Tiwanaku near La Paz predate the peak of the Inca empire by thousands of years. The biodiversity of Bolivia is the greatest of any country of the world.
There is no coast line on the ocean. Chile took care of that over one hundred years ago. Bolivians get along with every country in the world except Chile. It is easy to understand the feeling they must have. Only one other South American county is land locked (Paraguay). Despite being land locked huge flocks of pink flamingos inhabit the high desert (and I thought they all came from Florida).
Bolivia is a huge country but thinly populated. It is the size of California and Texas combined (if you ever drove across Texas and/or down California you will have some idea how big it is). Despite its size, more people live in LA than in all of Bolivia (10mm).
There are two major cities in Bolivia: La Paz with a population of 2mm and Santa Cruz with a population of over 1mm. La Paz is effectively the capital of Bolivia with the true capital still in the mountain city of Sucre.
Not many tourists come to Bolivia. There is only one direct flight a day to Bolivia from the USA and it arrives at 5:30AM. Less than one hundred passengers got off at La Paz and most of them were Bolivian nationals. It is interesting that there are so few tourists when there is much to see. The natural beautry of the country is as wonderful as any where in the world. There are many mountains that reach nearly 20k feet. The east side of the mountains are jungle and part of the Amazon River basin. The ancient ruins and massive ruins of Tiwanaku near La Paz predate the peak of the Inca empire by thousands of years. The biodiversity of Bolivia is the greatest of any country of the world.
There is no coast line on the ocean. Chile took care of that over one hundred years ago. Bolivians get along with every country in the world except Chile. It is easy to understand the feeling they must have. Only one other South American county is land locked (Paraguay). Despite being land locked huge flocks of pink flamingos inhabit the high desert (and I thought they all came from Florida).
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