awoke to the sound of dynamite going off. apparently the miner groups (there are 40 of them with no governmental controls) set of large amounts of dynamite to celebrate anniversaries, etc. walked ar d the city in a gorgeous early morning sun and admired the interested architecture and stone sculptures of the churchs. i figured the there would not be enough to do for the day so i took a mining trip into the great mountain at the edge of the city. what an experience. (this computer doesnt allow me to make caps or other key strokes so forgive what looks crude).
our guide was a real character. he first took us to a street store and there are many of them to buy gifts for the miners. we had to buy a bag of coca, a bottle 99% pure alchohol, a giant bottle of juice and a pair of gloves- the cost was $4. the street clerk also sold sticks of dynamite. our guide immediately began shoving coca leaves into his mouth as he explained what we were about to do. he was also taking some of the pure alcohol and smoking cigarettes. we were at 14,000 ft of elevation and all i wanted was more oxygen. we got to the base of the mine entrance (the mountain is covered with entrances since they have been mining here for 450yrs) and stood around for a long time. watching the work outside was sad...ugly surroundings(rocks, garbage and nothing green). many workers doing everything manually and sad looking stone homes right at the base of the mountain.
We spend about 2.5hrs in the mine. initially it was very cool but once we got further into the mountain it got hot. we must have walked at least a half mile into the mine. the walk was very difficult because of low lying rocks and pipes. if it were not for my helment i would now have a flat head. along the way we saw numerous small tunnels leading into darkness and many very deap holes. the miners work in horrid conditions and it is not uncommon for them to work 18hrs at a stretch. they never eat while working. they drink pure alcohol. juice and huge wads of coca. for this work they make very little. maybe $15-20 a day. the average age of a minor is very young because they tend to die of either accidents or of lung disease by the time they are 40. after over 2hrs in the mine i was sure happy to get out. the estimates of the number of men who died in the mines over the centuries ranges to 12,000,000. it is amazing to me that i knew nothing of this place until i cam here.
toured a few of the churches today and they represent the enourmous wealth that the city generated over the centuries. if the churches were not made of stone they cenrtainly would be in falling down due to a lack of care. the cathedral is in the 5th year of a 6yr rennovation. the inside was magnificant. lots of color and gold leaf- apparently the japanese government is paying for the rennovation. we climed to the bell tower and at this elevation it is a challenge to the lungs. at the top (150 feet above the street) there was one bell that weighs 4 tones.- it was build in Potosi in 1807 and it was made of bronze and gold-
I am ready to leave Potosi in the morning. i would go crazy if i had to stay here for another day. saw everthing in a day and a half.
In the morning I hope to find a bus to take me to a small city in souther Boliva called Tupiza. it is famous because Butch Cassidy and the SUndance Kid hung out there and were killed nearby. from there i am taking a 4day jeep ride into the great Bolivian salt flats. if you look at Google maps you can readily see it as a great white spot. once I leave Potosi I may not have communication for at least 5days. I will be in some pretty disolete but dramatic areas of the country.
No comments:
Post a Comment